The first time we visited Željava Airbase was during the wintertime and at night. It had a totally different vibe than when you visit during the day. It doesn’t matter once you’re inside the Plješivica mountain, it’s dark either way, but there’s an eerie feeling in the air as you light the entrances to the vast underground tunnels. The silence adds so much to the overall experience of this underground airport in Croatia.
This airbase is located deep underground of the Plješivica mountain, at the border of Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, and not so far away from Plitvice Lakes National Park. Željava Airbase is a mysterious place that tells you a story of the Cold War state of mind, military ingenuity, and historical changes the world was passing through at that time. It was once a top-secret Yugoslav military facility, today this huge underground airport is now an abandoned relic of some distant past.
Its creepy tunnels, mysterious atmosphere, and fascinating history make it a unique destination for all kinds of urban explorers and military enthusiasts. If visiting nearby Plitvice Lakes, one of the most famous national parks of Croatia, and you are into this kind of abandoned places, Željava Airbase offers an experience you won’t easily forget.
Let’s embark into the vast tunnel network of Željava underground airport together.
How to Reach Željava Airbase
Željava Airbase is located about 20 kilometers away from Plitvice Lakes National Park, making it a great spot to visit if you’re exploring one of the most famous national parks in Croatia. The easiest way to reach the base is by car, as there is practically no public transport to that area. From Plitvice, head towards the border with Bosnia and Herzegovina and follow the signs leading to the nearby village of Ličko Petrovo Selo. Once there, you’ll find yourself close to the airbase, which lies right on the border, in the vicinity of Bihać in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Some of the runways of this abandoned underground airport even cross the border.
While driving toward Željava, keep in mind that the airbase is technically on restricted land, and some areas are marked with warning signs telling you about mine-contaminated areas. Just stay on the road and don’t worry at all. These are simply reminders of the site’s historical and geographical sensitivity, as parts of the base are so close to the border.
Always carry your passport or ID if you plan to explore the area, as you might stumble upon the border control. Nothing unusual, just a routine check and you’ll be back on your way in seconds. Željava Airbase nowadays is much different and cleaner than at the time we visited it for the first time and more and more people choose to visit it each year.
History of Željava Airbase
Željava Airbase (also known as “Object 505”) was constructed during the Cold War by Yugoslavia in the middle of the 20th century. At that time, it was one of the most ambitious and secretive military projects in Europe, designed to withstand nuclear attacks and house up to 80 aircraft within its massive underground tunnels.
The construction took nearly two decades at the cost of approximately $6 billion. The whole nearby village of Željava (from which the whole airbase got its name) had to be moved because of the base construction and nobody really knew what was going on on the site. Workers who were working on the project had to remain secretive and talk about it to nobody.
This underground airport in Croatia was dug into the Plješevica Mountain, with over 3.5 kilometers of underground tunnels and five separate runways. It was equipped with the best technology of that time, including blast doors, superb air filtration systems, and many independent power sources. Željava airbase could operate autonomously for months if necessary, making it a strategic part of Yugoslavia’s defense system.
Željava Airbase During the Croatian War for Independence
Željava Airbase had a critical role during the Croatian War for Independence in the early 1990s. It was a place from which JNA (Yugoslav forces) operated at that time, and many flights started from there were aimed toward different parts of Croatia. When the conflict started, the base became an important strategic point for both Croatian and Serbian forces. However, as the war intensified, the airbase was abandoned and sabotaged to prevent it from falling into the arms of the Croatian army.
In 1992, retreating Yugoslav forces detonated huge amounts of explosives inside the tunnels, which destroyed the facility and made it useless. The explosions caused significant damage to the base’s infrastructure. The destruction of Željava marked the end of its military importance and usage, leaving behind a reminder of the war’s impact on the whole region.
Željava Airbase Today
Today, Željava Airbase stands as an eerie and yet fascinating relic of the turbulent past. Officially abandoned with no perspective to the Croatian military, it has become a popular destination for adventurous travelers, military enthusiasts, or anyone seeking to explore abandoned places of Croatia. The base’s runways are still visible, exiting directly from a Plješivica mountain, and are slowly being overgrown by nature although locals often clean them. The underground tunnels of Željava Airbase, although damaged and collapsed to some extent, remain a great place to visit for those who dare to venture inside.
It’s important to note that parts of the airbase still pose safety risks but the base is in a much better state than the first time we visited it some 10 years ago. In that period, Željava was cleaned to some extent and even some commercials were filmed inside of it. Signs warning of landmines are reminders of the site’s history, so caution is essential when exploring the surroundings of the base.
We recommend you don’t explore places now covered in vegetation and that are located outside of the Željava tunnels. There’s not much to see around in the first place. Despite this, Željava’s magnificence and unique atmosphere make it a must-visit destination for those interested in military history and urban exploration.
The Future of Željava Airbase
Željava Airbase definitely has some kind of tourist potential. It won’t be used as a military site ever again but there are some other ways in which it can be valorized. As an abandoned military site in Croatia with significant historical and cultural value, there have been many ideas on how to preserve it but each of them requires a huge amount of money and we believe that the base will never be restored in any form, maybe just cleaned a bit more.
Some people see it as a historical monument or a tourist attraction of this part of Croatia, with an offer of guided tours to educate visitors about the Željava Cold War past and its role in the Croatian War for Independence. Some others propose using its tunnels for different purposes, such as filming locations, events, or something similar. However, the challenges of clearing Željava Airbase are numerous and require a lot of money and other resources. For now, Željava stands as a haunting reminder of not-so-bright history, just waiting for a new purpose while attracting many visitors each year.
Tips on Exploring the Base
Exploring Željava Airbase requires a bit of caution. Nothing dramatic, a lot of people visit it each year but here are some tips to help you make the most of your visit to this unique underground airport:
- Wear appropriate shoes and clothing: The tunnels are dark, moist, and filled with debris to some extent, so comfortable shoes and long-sleeved clothing are a must. It’s also a bit colder inside during the whole year.
- Helmet: Not so necessary but we advise it if you are able to get it. Take care and look at the parts of the armature that hang from the ceiling at the parts of Željava Airbase.
- Bring a flashlight: The underground sections of the base have no light at all so you have to bring some kind of flashlight. Don’t rely on your mobile phone light because you won’t see anything. Bring a proper one and stay safe.
- Travel with a guide if possible: While the base can definitely be explored independently, hiring a local guide can be a good choice if you want better insight into the base and its history.
- Respect the warnings: Stay clear of areas marked with landmine signs. Nothing to see there anyway. Follow the Leave No Trace principles no matter which place you’re visiting.
- Don’t touch too much: If you come across any suspicious objects, leave them untouched. Definitely don’t take anything from a base with you. Just leave it there.
What to Visit in the Vicinity
While Željava Airbase is one of a kind attraction near the famous Plitvice Lakes National Park, the surrounding area offers many other places worth visiting while staying in the area, here are just a few of them:
- Plitvice Lakes National Park: Just a short drive away, this UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most known natural wonders of Croatia. You’re probably visiting them anyway if reading this article.
- Mrežnica River: This beautiful river is great for outdoor activities such as kayaking and rafting.
- Plješevica Mountain: For hiking enthusiasts, the mountain surrounding Željava provides excellent trails and there are some abandoned military structures on its peak too.
- Una National Park (Bosnia and Herzegovina): Located just across the border, this park features the stunning Una River and its creations.
- Slunj: a small town famous for its cascading waterfalls.
Activities to Enjoy in the Željava airbase area
The region around Željava Airbase offers a variety of outdoor activities and experiences for people of all ages. In this section, we’re going to suggest some of the best activities you can try in the area.
If you’re looking for an adrenaline rush, you have to try Pazi Medo Zipline, one of the longest ziplines in Europe, located near Plitvice Lakes. Located in Lika’s beautiful landscape, this thrilling ride offers a bird’s-eye view of the world below you. Closest you can feel to being a bird.
If you are a water enthusiast, kayaking on the Mrežnica River is the activity for you. I worked as a kayak guide on that river some time ago and trust me, you will love the experience. Known for its numerous waterfalls, the Mrežnica River provides a great kayaking adventure in a lush landscape.
History and nature enthusiasts will enjoy exploring the Barać Caves, located a short drive from Plitvice Lakes. These fascinating caves feature impressive stalactites, stalagmites, and a whole underground ecosystem, making them a great spot for a family visit.
Other nearby activities include hiking in the Plješevica Mountain, visiting local villages and trying traditional Croatian food, or even crossing the border to Bosnia and Herzegovina and exploring Una National Park. With so many options, the area around Željava Airbase offers something for everyone.
Before you embark into the tunnels of Željava airbase
What more can be said about Željava airbase? Not much, we believe it to be one of the most fascinating abandoned places in Croatia. Well, not only in Croatia, Željava is one of the most stunning of these types of objects in the whole of Europe. So far, we have visited Željava numerous times, and next time we visit it, we plan to make a short documentary for our YouTube channel. Until then, you can check our channel for some smaller, but still similar abandoned places in southern Croatia and the Croatian islands.
Enjoy the exploration of Željava Airbase underground airport and stay safe.