We really seem to have a problem with exploring the places that are closest to us. I mean, we don’t have a problem exploring them, but the problem with reaching them much later than we should. That was the case with the Ćiro trail too. Something that was literary under our noses we explored far too late.
Although we live just 30 minutes driving away from it, somehow we did our first tour much later than we should. We simply didn’t know about it sooner although we believed to know pretty much everything in our proximity.
And that’s where the good marketing kicks in. Herzegovina Bike who is responsible for the whole project did a great job both on the trail side and on the marketing side. The marketing side was the reason we experienced the trail side. I can almost still remember one night when I stumbled upon one image of a biker on a trail that seemed so cool that I started to dig further and found out that it was taken so close to the place we live.
Long story short, the Ćiro trail is one of the best outdoor attractions south of Herzegovina and we enjoyed this experience so much that I dream of returning to this marvel almost every day.
What is the Ćiro Trail?
Glad you asked. Ciro trail is a multidimensional experience and the first of its kind in Bosnia and Herzegovina. In fact, it’s the cycling trail made upon the old narrow-gauge railway route that was passing through Bosnia and Herzegovina and Croatia. When we say the multidimensional experience we mean you feel almost like traveling to the past while cycling on Ciro trail. At least we felt so. We felt almost like a train and everything was so good. You can still feel the characteristic railway smells on the trail, especially in the tunnel, even after all these years the railroad is gone.
To be honest, I’m a huge railway fan and half of my family was working on a railroad in their own respective time. Maybe that’s the reason why I was so excited when we decided to explore this route. This railroad route was made by the Austro-Hungarian monarchy like many others at that time. The railway was much more romantic back then with steam locomotives and all that cool stuff that makes the railroad interesting.
The best tours on Ćiro Trail and in the area
What Places Did the Ćiro Train Connect in the Past?
The Ćiro Trail today follows the historic narrow-gauge railway line that was established during the Austro-Hungarian era. This railway served as a crucial connection for transporting goods and passengers across Bosnia and Herzegovina into southern Croatia. Here are some notable points the original Ćiro train connected:
- Mostar: A major city full of history and culture, the train carried goods like textiles and agricultural products from here to other regions.
- Čapljina: An important stop along the route, known for its agricultural significance.
- Hutovo: The train passed through this area, which is now part of Hutovo Blato Nature Park, offering picturesque views even back then. This is the part of the Ćiro trail that we explored.
- Dubrovnik: Dubrovnik was one of the major stops for the Ćiro trail and it was as famous back then as it is nowadays.
- Konavle: The train continued toward Konavle south of Dubrovnik and remnants of Ćiro tracks can be seen at some places even nowadays.
The Ćiro train was more than just a regular train, it was a symbol of connection and a whole generation. Today, the cycling trail that runs on top of past railway tracks (that have been removed now) honors the legacy of this famous train and preserves the route’s historical significance while making it possible for outdoor enthusiasts to enjoy it at the same time.
Where is the Ćiro Trail Located?
The original Ćiro Trail stretches from Mostar to Dubrovnik and beyond, passing through the idyllic landscapes of Bosnia and Herzegovina and Croatia. The route primarily follows the old railway line, crossing through villages, and hills, and overlooking serene valleys and significant landscapes such as Svitavsko Lake and Hutovo Blato. It is divided into sections that pass through the Herzegovina-Neretva Canton and the Dubrovnik-Neretva County in Croatia.
- Starting Point: Mostar, a historic city famous for its iconic Stari Most (Old Bridge).
- Ending Point: Dubrovnik, the most famous city and UNESCO-protected place in Croatia
- Distance: Approximately 150 kilometers.
How to Reach the Ćiro Trail
Ciro trail is a pretty long cycling route in Bosnia and Herzegovina and there are many entrance points to the route. The whole trail was connecting primarily the cities of Mostar and Dubrovnik. All the smaller towns and villages along the route had a railway station and most of these are preserved even today. They are not in the best condition, but we hope that that will change too and some of these will be renovated.
Basically, you can start your Ciro trail experience anywhere, depending on how much time you want to spend cycling and what you want to see. We would say that the best part of this trail starts somewhere from Dračevo (near the border with Croatia) and then further south toward Dubrovnik. That’s where we started our Ćiro trail cycling adventure.
We suggest you check Herzegovina bike main site for the interactive map of the whole route and everything will be much clearer to you.
If you are starting the Ćiro trail from Mostar you can reach Mostar:
- By Car:
- Mostar is easily accessible by car and serves as the starting point for the Ćiro Trail. It is approximately 2.5 hours from Sarajevo and 2 hours from Dubrovnik by road.
- There is parking available in Mostar and other key points along the trail.
- By Train:
- Mostar is connected by train to Sarajevo and other major cities in the region. The train journey from Sarajevo to Mostar is particularly scenic, following the Neretva River and passing through its canyon.
- By Air:
- Mostar International Airport is the closest airport, though Sarajevo and Dubrovnik airports offer more frequent international connections. If you are coming by air, you’ll probably want to rent a bike before you embark on this cycling adventure in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
- By Bus:
- Regular buses run between Sarajevo, Dubrovnik, and Mostar as well as other cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina and Croatia. Local buses connect smaller towns along the trail but these are not so frequent.
Highlights of the Ćiro Trail
The Ćiro trail covers a long route and we explored just a small portion of it. As we already mentioned, we started our journey in the village of Dračevo in Bosnia and Herzegovina and immediately started climbing toward Hrasno which was the ending point of our experience of this unique cycling trail in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Here are some key highlights you might want to explore when cycling this route (depending on where you start):
- Mostar:
- If you begin your journey in Mostar, explore the Old Bridge, the historic bazaar, and traditional Ottoman-style houses.
- Počitelj:
- A medieval stone town located along the trail, Počitelj is a must-visit for its Ottoman architecture and stunning views of the Neretva River.
- Hutovo Blato Nature Park:
- A well-preserved wetland reserve known for its diverse bird species and tranquil environment. It’s a great spot for nature lovers.
- Ravni Kotari:
- A section of the trail known for its vineyards, olive groves, and charming rural landscapes.
- Dubrovnik:
- Conclude your journey in Dubrovnik, where you can explore its historic Old Town, enjoy coastal views, and relax after your adventure.
What Else to Explore in the Vicinity
If you are willing to divert a bit from the original course of Ćiro trail there are even more places to visit and experience.
- Blagaj Tekke:
- Located near Mostar, this Dervish monastery sits at the source of the Buna River and offers a serene atmosphere.
- Kravice Waterfalls:
- A short detour from the trail, these waterfalls are a perfect spot for swimming and picnicking.
- Medjugorje:
- A famous pilgrimage site, Medjugorje attracts visitors from around the world.
- Neretva Valley:
- The Neretva Valley offers unique landscapes, sandy beaches, and opportunities for kiteboarding and birdwatching.
- Svitavsko Lake and Hutovo Blato:
- A serene spot near the trail, ideal for relaxing and enjoying nature. Its calm waters and picturesque surroundings make it a perfect detour for adventurers.
- Čapljina and Trebižat river:
- Čapljina is a nice city to visit while Trebižat offers a nice retreat into nature, especially during the hot summer cycling adventures. There are also nice canoe safari tours that can be booked on the Trebižat River.
Best Time to Visit the Ćiro Trail
The best time to explore the Ćiro Trail is during the spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October). These periods offer the best weather for cycling and any other outdoor activities. This cycling trail can be experienced during the summer too and it’s not uncommon for many cyclists to visit it during the hottest months.
If that’s going to be the case with you too, just prepare additionally for the summer heat and pack accordingly.
- Summer (July-August): While the weather is warm, the trail can get quite hot, so plan an early morning or late afternoon ride. The trail exploration can easily be split into sections if you want to explore it in a few days.
- Winter (November-March): Some parts of the trail might not be accessible due to snow or other bad weather conditions.
Tips for Exploring the Ćiro Trail
Here are some general tips for exploring this unique cycling route in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
- Cycling Gear:
- Rent a mountain or hybrid bike for comfort on varied terrain. Or even an electric bike which can prove pretty useful at some parts of the trail
- Carry a repair kit, as bike services are almost non-existent at some parts of the Ćiro trail.
- Clothing:
- Wear breathable, lightweight clothing for warm days and layers for cooler mornings.
- Essentials:
- Pack water, snacks, sunscreen, and a first-aid kit.
- Bring a map or GPS device as mobile network signals can vary along the trail.
- Accommodation:
- Options range from guesthouses and small hotels in towns like Počitelj and Ravni Kotari to boutique hotels in Mostar and Dubrovnik. There is even an old railway station made into the hotel in Ravno.
How Did Our Experience of Ćiro Trail Look Like?
We chose to start from Dracevo because that part of the Ciro trail is closest to us and we need only 30 minutes of driving to reach it. So we put the bikes on our old BMW and headed into this cycling adventure. Finding the entrance to the route wasn’t hard and it’s well marked.
And so it started. I was really looking forward to drinking a coffee on an old steel bridge I knew was present on this route. We planned to reach Hrasno and then return back. It was wintertime and days were not as long as we would like them to be. It will later prove that even this short route was more than enough for a superb experience.
Our whole way to Hrasno station was the ascent, but since it was a railway, the ascent is not so steep. However, it seems that even this ascent was hard to overcome for the trains so 3 locomotives were often used on this part of the route. The route is full of tunnels and we advise you to have a flashlight while cycling through them. Or get off the bike and walk. Some parts of the gravel road on the route have larger rocks left from the time when this was a railroad so we suggest using an MTB for riding a Ciro trail.
Our favorite detail of the trail – Eiffel’s bridge on Ćiro Trail
Eventually, we reached the steel bridge that I was looking forward to seeing. And it was amazing. We had our coffee and breakfast there. We enjoyed the whole route, but the bridge was something special. Later we found out that it was designed by the famous Eiffel.
We enjoyed it a bit and continued toward Hrasno which we reached an hour or so later. This part of the route was equally beautiful as the first one, only this time we had the view of Svitavsko Lake and Hutovo Blato Nature Park on our left side.
At Hrasno railway station
Upon reaching Hrasno railway station the day was already at its end. We still managed to spend some time there, again with the warm coffee and sandwiches. We saw a few meters of railway tracks there, and these were the only track parts we had seen that day. But even without them, the whole route has that railroad vibe. Hrasno station was an important station at that time and trains were supplied by coal and water right here.
We saw a route continuing forward in the distance, but we already decided to leave other parts of the Ciro trail for longer days of Spring. Our adventure of that day ended in Hrasno. We decided to use a paved road to return back to our car. As we were driving along the Svitavsko Lake, we saw the Ciro trail up the hills, saw the Eiffel Bridge, and relived our adventure one more time.
Before you Venture into this cycling adventure
Ciro trail is something you need to return to once in a while. Especially if you are living near it as we are. It has that certain railway vibe that attracts you. Maybe it’s that romantic history that lies hidden under the gravel road of the Ćiro trail.
Next time we return, we are going to make a YouTube documentary about this route. You haven’t seen our YouTube channel? Go and check it, you might find some useful adventure travel tips there.
