DISCLAIMER: This will partly be an ultimate guide to Mljet National Park (and Mljet island) but also our personal experience of the empty park and the island, something that will probably never happen again. By empty we mean empty of all tourists since we were the only visitors to the island on that in May 2020.
Just looking at all the photos we took during our stay on Mljet Island and at Mljet National Park will make you fall in love with the place and make you want to visit it.
“My God where have we been before!” – both of us said at the same time. We are living (were living at that time) in the city of Ploče, some 50 kilometers away from Mljet National Park and we visited it just a few months ago, in the middle of the Coronavirus crisis.
And, to be honest, it proved to be much better that way. We have experienced Mljet island and its national park the best way anybody could possibly experience it – alone on the island. We are well aware that no tourists during a season when there should be lots of them is no good. But boy was it good to explore the Mljet National Park on your own and see no one.
Still, we hope that this virus crisis will pass (it passed by now when we are editing this article) and people will come to Mljet island again and explore it from the bottom to its peak. Because this island deserves it, it holds a beauty that everyone has to see and experience for themselves.
Mljet National Park: Natural Wonder of Croatian South Established in 1960, Mljet National Park covers a portion of Mljet Island which is often regarded as Croatia’s greenest island. The park is characterized by its lush forests, saltwater lakes, and idyllic landscapes that make it a perfect place for relaxation and exploration.
Highlights of the Park:
Veliko and Malo Jezero (Big and Small Lakes): These two interconnected saltwater lakes are the centerpiece of the park. They’re perfect for swimming, kayaking, and simply admiring their turquoise waters.St. Mary’s Island: Located in Veliko Jezero, this small island is home to a 12th-century Benedictine monastery, offering a mix of history and stunning views.Biodiversity: The park is home to various species of flora and fauna, including rare plants, monk seals, and an array of bird species.Cycling and Hiking Trails: Well-marked trails weave through the park, providing breathtaking views and peaceful walks.
How to Reach Mljet Island and Mljet National Park? To reach the Mljet island, you need to take a ferry from Prapratno on the Peljesac peninsula. That same ferry will take you to Sobra on Mljet island in just about 45 minutes. Use this time to enjoy on the ferry deck while you sail into paradise. The price of the ferry is 28 HRK during the summer season. If you go by car, which we recommend, then you’ll pay an additional 140 HRK just for your car. And these are the prices for one direction. Check the official sites for the latest ferry prices.
In case you are not going in a car, you have the option to rent it on the Mljet island. The whole island is not so large as some other Croatian islands and it will take you approximately 1 hour to cross the whole island. And that’s good because if you choose to spend one day on Mljet island, you can explore most of its places. When we were there we spent 2 days and the first day was reserved for the island part that is not in the national park while we spent almost the whole second day in the Mljet national park.
How to get to Mljet National Park from Dubrovnik? Since the Park is located in Dubrovnik – neretva county, and it’s not so far away from Dubrovnik, there are many day tours that leave from Dubrovnik toward Mljet each day. You have the chance to choose between boat tours and van tours, each of them has its advantages and it’s up to you which one to choose.
Boat tours from Dubrovnik to Mljet can offer you a nice panoramic ride and take you directly to the park entrance, while the van tours offer equally panoramic rides with a chance to explore the inner part of the island more than it’s the case with boat tours.
Alone on the Mljet Island The ladies at the entrance to the park said that they had never witnessed a situation like this on the Mljet island. At least not at this time of the year. It was May and usually at this time island is already full of people. But as we already mentioned, this was a specific situation because of the Coronavirus.
The feeling of being alone on Mljet Island was strange. Even the locals were amazed when we passed near them in our van. They probably thought we were tourists and not somebody that came only from 50 kilometers away. But as long as they are happy seeing us, we are happy to make them happy.
We have passed less than every place you need to see on Mljet Island. We cycled through the whole park area with an inevitable swim in the Plitko jezero (Shallow lake). All that with seeing almost no one. Try to imagine that experience next time you go exploring some popular and visited locations. This probably won’t repeat ever again. And that’s the fact that brings sadness and joy at the same time.
Sleeping in the Van on Mljet Island While it’s officially not permitted to camp on your own in Croatia, we couldn’t resist the urge. It was only for one night and as long as you respect the place where you sleep and don’t leave anything after you, it’s perfectly fine. Sleeping in a van is a tradition of ours, we often do it when we go on a multi-day adventure like this one (edit: not so much anymore).
There is nothing better than to be awoken by the first sun rays hitting your van windows. And drinking your first coffee while the perfect day is dawning. The day we explored the Mljet National Park.
Exploring the Mljet National Park And finally, the day came to explore the Mljet National Park. We embarked toward the park early in the morning, stopping here and there to explore some other Mljet island attractions. Mljet national park is not so big and you’ll need just a few hours to explore it. Unless you really want to explore every corner of it, in that case, you’ll need more time.
Hiking to Montokuc Peak We started our exploration of the Mljet national park with a hot coffee at the entrance to the park. There is an option to rent a bike and explore the park which we highly suggest. But this time we had bikes of our own. We usually remove the last bench in our van when we take bikes with us so they can easily fit inside.
But first things first, before cycling and discovering all the best places of Mljet national park, it was time to hike the most famous hike of the park – that to the Montokuc peak . The ladies working at the entrance of Mljet National Park told us that we had to visit Montokuc Peak. And who are we not to listen to somebody that knows the park so well. So before we went to explore the lakes with our bikes, we embarked on a hiking tour. We walked for around 40 minutes until we reached Montokuc.
Why Visit: Montokuc is the highest accessible peak within the park, and the view from the top is magical. From here, you can see Veliko and Malo Jezero, the Adriatic Sea, and even nearby islands on a clear day.What to Expect: The trail is well-marked and takes you through dense pine forests and scenic landscapes. Along the way, you’ll encounter peaceful spots to rest and enjoy the natural beauty of the park.Duration: The hike takes approximately 1 hour depending on your pace. Take it slowly, you’re not in a rushPro Tip: Start early in the morning to avoid the midday heat and bring plenty of water and a camera to capture the stunning vistas.
Once we reached Montokuc Peak we saw a large wooden cottage of peculiar architecture, resembling a beacon. Inside it, a firefighter was watching over the park area and alarming the firefighter brigade in case of any visible smoke. It’s possible to climb up this cottage and enjoy probably the best view of Mljet National Park.
Lakes of Mljet National Park The most famous attraction of Mljet National Park is its lakes with turquoise water color. Swimming in them is not forbidden and it’s something you need to do when visiting this national park. Further from the sea, the lake is, warmer its water is. Water in all the lakes is salty.
When it comes to the exploration of the Mljet National Park, there is no better option than a bike. There is the option of renting the bike, if you have your own, you can use it. Cycling trails go all around the lakes and they are partly paved and partly gravel.
St. Mary’s Island Located in Veliko Jezero, this small island is home to a 12th-century Benedictine monastery, offering a mix of history and stunning views. During our visit, we haven’t gone to this monastery but we were able to capture some nice photos of the island from the air.
PLEASE NOTE: Flying a drone in the Mljet National Park is not permitted unless approved by the park management. Because the situation was how it was during our visit, we got the approval and flew a drone above an empty park.
Boat tours going to St. Mary’s Island from the middle of the one of park’s lakes and the boat ride are included in the park’s ticket price, with no extra costs. The ticket price of Mljet National Park for the adult person is 22 Euros in the summer season and 13 Euros out of the season.
Activities in Mljet National Park Here’s a list of the best activities to enjoy in the national park.
Kayaking and Canoeing: Explore the peaceful waters of Veliko and Malo Jezero.Cycling: Rent a bike and ride along the lakes or through the shaded forest paths.Swimming: The calm, warm waters of the lakes are perfect for a refreshing dip.Hiking: Discover hidden viewpoints and enjoy the park’s peaceful atmosphere on foot. As already mentioned Montokuc is a great hike resulting with a perfect view.Boat Tours: Take a boat ride to St. Mary’s Island and explore the Benedictine monastery.
Exploring Beyond the National Park While Mljet National Park is the most famous spot on Mljet Island, there are plenty of other attractions and activities to explore outside the park. In our 2 days on the Mljet island, we explored pretty much anything there is to explore. Still, we somehow felt so lonely. Like Pale, a famous character from a children’s book that is so famous in Croatia. It was a strange feeling, after all, to explore the Mljet Island and Mljet National Park all alone.
Here’s what else to see on the Mljet island.
Limuni Bay (and nearby Saplunara Beach) Lemon bay. What a funny name. We saw no lemons there. But the beach was perfect. It’s a sandy beach in the south of Mljet island. If you like sand, that’s a place for you to go. The rest of the Mljet coast is rocky with not so many pebble beaches. Most of the beaches are not easily accessible at all. We haven’t spent much time at Limuni beach. It was the first location we planned to visit on Mljet island and we headed toward it as soon as our van touched the land of this island.
We spent a few hours there, didn’t swim because it was a bit cold at that moment and we fought the cold with a cup of warm coffee. And we were just happy to be on Mljet island, planning the next places to visit and so on.
Odysseus’ Cave Mljet National Park is the crown of the Mljet island, its most famous attraction. But the rest of the island shouldn’t be left unexplored. Take the Odysseus cave for example. It’s not part of the national park and still, it’s one of the most visited places on this green island. We don’t need to mention that we were alone here too and we swam naked inside the cave. Experience of a lifetime.
To reach the bottom of the Odysseus cave you need to hike a bit. We don’t suggest embarking on this adventure in your flip-flops because the entrance to the cave is very steep. We knew what to expect so we prepared in advance. Once you reach the bottom of the cave, you’ll be astonished by its beauty and you’ll feel the urge to jump in the deep blue sea. Don’t resist the urge and jump.
Ah yes, Odysseus cave is situated in the central part of the island, near Babino Polje village, the largest and central village on Mljet island.
Polače This charming village serves as one of the main entry points to the park. Polače is known for its ancient Roman ruins, including the remains of a palace, making it a perfect blend of history and natural beauty. If you are looking for accommodation near the Mljet National Park, you will easily find it here.
Okuklje Village Okuklje village was yet another location we visited during our stay on Mljet island. It’s located on the northern part of the Mljet island and it’s a small nice bay. The village was formed during the Dubrovnik Republic and today is a commonly visited location on Mljet island with a lot of accommodation.
Lake Blatina Lake Blatina was one of the most peculiar places we have visited on Mljet Island. We found it using Google Maps, saw that there are some unpaved roads leading to it and so we decided to explore it. It’s located almost in the middle of the island and the lake is filled with slightly salty water. There are few of these types of lakes on the island and this one was the most peculiar one. Locals usually use the water from these lakes to water their crops.
Local Cuisine Mljet is also known for its delicious local cuisine, especially seafood. Visit family-run restaurants to try fresh fish, octopus salad, and local wines, all prepared in traditional Dalmatian style. Although there were no open restaurants at the time of our visit we are well aware of the Dalmatian recipes and how delicious they are. Still, we ended up cooking our own food and living like the campers do.
Best Time to Visit Mljet National Park The best time to visit Mljet National Park is during the shoulder seasons of spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October). These months offer pleasant weather, fewer crowds, and the chance to fully immerse yourself in the park’s tranquil beauty.
However, the summer months are ideal for swimming and enjoying water activities, and this means the park is most visited in the months of July and August.
Before You Venture Mljet National Park is a destination that captivates with its untouched natural beauty and serene environment. We were lucky enough to experience the park in a way not so many others did. After global tourism returned to its previous levels Mljet National Park is yet again visited by more and more people each year.
If you are traveling through southern Croatia or staying in Dubrovnik, we suggest you take a daily trip to Mljet island and explore Mljet National Park and the rest this beautiful island has to offer.
